Retinoids are increasingly becoming a go-to option for skin concerns. Topical retinoids can be used to treat acne, hyperpigmentation, smooth out the appearance of wrinkles, as well as reveal healthy glowing skin.  

​I am an advocate of retinoids, having tried everything from prescription strength formulas to OTC brands. The results were so incredible that I quickly become a junkie, and have added them to my nightly routine 3x weekly. I soon found out that less is more when it comes to using retinoids, as I quickly succumbed to becoming a victim PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation)
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Retinoids are a group of compounds which are a synthetic derivative of vitamin A. When applied topically, retinoids convert to retinoic acid  with the help of specialized enzymes found in the skin.  

​Types of Retinoids:

• Tretinoin: Popularly known as Retin-A.  This topical retinoid is given under the guidance of medical professionals by prescription only. It is usually prescribed for acne conditions or sometimes aging skin.
• Isotretinoin: Very potent, and also known as Accutane. This prescription form of vitamin A is taken orally, and is used for aggressive acne and scarring.
• Tazarotene: A very potent retinoid. It is administered under prescription, and is used to address acne. In high doses it can be effective in treating psoriasis.
• Retinol: Can be bought OTC (over the counter). It is a very popular skincare ingredient known to boost cell turnover and collagen production. 
• Adapalene: A recently approved OTC retinoid in the US, that’s comparable to prescription strength  retinoids but with a decreased risk of irritation.
• Retinaldehyde: This is potent OTC retinoid, that is much stronger than retinol. It has the ability to deliver anti-aging benefits faster than retinol, and causes less skin irritation.
• Retinal Palmitate: This an OTC retinoid that is the least potent of all the retinoids sold without a prescription. This is a great option for those with extremely dry skin, sensitive skin, or skin with minimal signs of aging.
• Bakuchiol: Technically in a category of its own. This plant based derivative mimics the effects of retinoids, and is less irritating on the skin.

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​Retinoids have been deemed by some to be an anti-aging miracle cure. People always ask, “Does retinol permanently reduce wrinkles?”  Or “ Does retinol make you look younger?” Here are the facts on retinoids, anti-aging, and other benefits of retinoids for the skin:

• Retinoids help to speed up cell turnover. This is essential, because as you age cell turnover decreases. This can cause fine lines, wrinkles, and also clogged pores leading to adult acne.
• Retinoids are an excellent choice for people with acne prone skin. I would recommend retinoids to anyone with moderate to severe acne, and in cases such as cystic acne.  Especially if someone is younger than forty, and not looking to use retinoids for its anti-aging benefits.
• Topical retinoids help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing cell turnover.  Therefore, stimulating collagen synthesis.
• Helps to smooth out the skins texture, because of its ability to exfoliate the skin.
• Topical Retinoids will also help to brighten the skin and help with conditions such as hyperpigmentation through the process of exfoliation.

Are retinoids anti-aging? Simply put, the answer is yes.  Retinoids will help slow down the aging process by increasing cell turnover, and building collagen in the skin which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.  But if you're well into the aging process and have a significant amount of wrinkles, don’t expect retinoids to be a miracle cure. In this case, retinoids will help to smooth out the existing wrinkles, giving the skin a slightly tighter and youthful appearance.
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​There are a couple of things to keep in mind when starting off on your retinoid journey. Retinoids can irritate the skin especially when used in high doses. If you are a novice, it’s best to start using retinoids in smaller percentages. As your skin builds up tolerance, then you can slowly increase to a higher percentage.
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​In the beginning, it’s better to use retinoids 1-2x per week. Monitor your skin to see results.  For seasoned retinoid users, I would advise 3-4x week at most.  

Please be aware that retinoids can cause irritation, peeling, redness and even PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). PIH is caused when the skin becomes inflamed and damaged, leading to scarring and dark marks that can be hard to get rid of. To avoid a case of PIH, I would advise anyone that is using retinoids to start slowly and use low percentages.
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​Retinoids can increase the skin’s sensitivity to light.  Therefore, it’s  better to use retinoids at night to avoid sun exposure. When using retinoids, please remember to always wear sunscreen during the day. I would recommend SPF 50 for maximum protection. Some people say that retinoids can be applied during the day. I highly discourage using it during the day, as it can cause hyperpigmentation especially with people of darker skin tones.
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​Retinoids can lose their potency over time. Look for oil based formulas such as squalene rather than water based formulas, as water based formulas break down faster. Also look for packaging that is either in a tube, pump or airless dispenser to preserve shelf life.

Your skin develops immunity to Retinoids over time

​The skin can develop resistance to skincare products in general, so it’s a good idea to switch up your skincare products from time to time.  People develop a resistance towards retinoids over time.  That’s why it’s not good to start using retinoids when you’re too young or start off with high percentages. Start off with the lowest percentage possible and work your way up.  If not, retinoids will not work for you when you need them most.

​Retinoids are used in many OTC products. So there’s no need to visit a dermatologist unless you have a severe skin condition. The most common forms of retinoids formulated in cosmetic products are: retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinaldehyde.   

Below is a curated list  with some really great skincare products that contain retinoids.  If you are looking to for something to add to your skincare routine  or just getting started on your retinoid journey, these products are for you.
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​I love a good sleeping mask! This was  first product that I ever tried from this Cult Brand. I’m always skeptical when trying new products, so I made my first purchase with caution.  

​The mask immediately soaked into my skin.  I love this product! Its packed with all sorts of ingredients that help combat environmental aggressors and help restore aging skin. The key ingredients are: encapsulated retinol, avocado, niacinamide, and coffee berry. My skin actually drinks this up! This mask is extremely hydrating and smooths out fine lines when left on overnight.

​The results I’ve gotten from using this product actually took me by surprise.  Before introducing this product into my skincare routine, I used to use Retin-A gel 0.05%.  This product is less irritating than Retin-A.  I love the fact that it’s in squalene, so there is an extra moisturizing factor.  I apply it 3x week  before my applying my night cream.

​One of the most popular serums by La Roche-Posay.  This serum is great for sensitive skin.  It helps to fight the first signs of aging, by targeting fine lines and wrinkles.  This serum also works to hydrate the skin and help with uneven skin tone/ texture. It also contains vitamin B3, which makes this serum a powerhouse!

​This serum is packed full of goodness.  It is potent mix of 1.5% micro encapsulated retinol, and powerful antioxidants (vitamin E & vitamin C).  The time released retinol serum gradually releases  retinol throughout the night.  Non-irritating to the skin, this product is suitable for all skin types.  It helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, as well as even out skin tone and smooths the texture of the skin.  If you’re looking for a radiant complexion, then this is the serum for you.

​This is an excellent treatment with 1% retinol.  It contains other ingredients such as vitamin C, licorice root, and peptides. This potent cocktail helps to smooth fine lines, wrinkles, firms the skin and treats hyperpigmentation.

I’ve never had an issue with the way that I dress. In fact I’ve always been conscious of choosing the right clothing for my body type, as its important to portray your physique in a flattering light. When I entered my forties I didn’t think it was necessary to change my style of dress, because everything I’d worn thus this far had looked good on me.

In the summer of 2015 my friend had come to Paris to visit me, along with her eleven year old daughter in tow. One afternoon on one of our many shopping expeditions, her daughter turned to me and said, “Aunty, you look like your eighteen!”

I was floored. An eleven year old just told me (a then forty year old) that I looked eighteen. I knew straight away that she was referring to the way I was dressed. I immediately looked at my friend who was dressed in drab colors like somebody’s grandmother, and thought to myself “this could never be me.”

When I think about it, every fashion ad (or any ad period) that markets to women over forty, always shows an older women conservatively and badly dressed. If I walk into a shop and see women in my age group I immediately turn around and leave, because the fashion they’re gravitating towards isn’t in my league. I have always shopped in stores that market a “youthful image”.

So is “age appropriate” fashion a thing of the past? Is there a certain dress code that women over forty must prescribe to?  

I definitely think that in today’s world women do not only look younger, but they are thinking and acting younger. Gone are the days that being forty was a death sentence! Now you hear people say, “forties are the new thirties.”

But does it really matter what you wear?  I personally believe that as long as the clothing looks good on you, and you have the physique to carry it then by all means go ahead. Youth  is a feeling, and fashion is an expression of that feeling. So if you’re forty nine and still want to wear that leopard coat, then wear it! 

There have been so many societal limitations put on women in midlife. I think that fashion shouldn’t be one of them. Fashion is the freedom to creatively express your inner self. And as women, if we can no longer express our inner selves then we die.

Wearing whatever you want is a freedom of expression. I encourage all women over forty to live their best lives. Continue to create, express, grow…and be 100% fashionably you!

The journey towards peace and a healthy lifestyle may not always be a linear path. Sometimes being  open to new methods of healing can lead us to our breakthrough. At first glance meditation may not seem to be your cup of tea. But if you take a closer look, you’ll see that the benefits of meditation are persuasive enough to make you start practicing.  I’ve been practicing meditation on and off for years, and have recently picked the habit back up during the early days of the pandemic.  And I can attest that it’s been nothing short of a life saver.

Meditation is the practice of training your mind to focus by rediecting your  thoughts and attention while the body is in a state of relaxation.  Meditation is practiced in numerous religious traditions. In recent years meditation has become increasingly popular due to the countless health benefits, many of which can be felt almost immediately.  

• Reduces Stress​

The number 1 benefit of meditation is stress reduction.  Research shows that meditation reduces the side effects caused by stress such as inflammation, and improves the the symptoms of stress-related medical conditions.

Psychological stress can also provoke symptoms in chronic inflammatory disorders.  In a research article published in Science Direct, A comparison of mindfulness-based stress reduction and an active control in modulation of neurogenic inflammation, studies show a reduction of inflammation brought on by psychological stress after 8 weeks.

• Helps To Control Anxiety

Anxiety and stress are closely related. Meditation reduces stress levels, therefore diminishing anxiety. Research shows that the regular practice of meditation and mindfulness may reduce anxiety levels.

Meditation is also beneficial when dealing with job-related anxiety.  In one study published by the National Library of Medicine, employees who used a mindful meditation app for 8 weeks experienced  a decline of stress levels in the work place with an improvement in overall wellbeing, in comparison with those in a control group.  

In another study published by the Journal of Clinical Psychology, researchers found that mindfulness meditation reduced the symptoms in people with generalised anxiety disorder, improved coping mechanisms and reaction to stress after 8 weeks.

• Promotes Emotional Wellbeing​

Emotional wellbeing is an integral part of leading a happy and healthy lifestyle.  Meditation can lead to an improvement in self-image and a more positive outlook on life.  

In the research article, Does mindfulness attenuate thought emphasising negativity, but not positivity?, researchers discovered that people who completed  a meditation exercise experienced fewer negative thoughts in response to viewing negative images, when compared with those in a control group.

• Improves Self-Awareness

Certain types of meditation can help you develop a better understanding of yourself, and increase self-awareness.  Getting in touch with the core of your essence can assist you in becoming the best version of yourself. 

• Increases Attention Span

Meditation strengthens your attention span. By meditating for just a few minutes each day, you can enhance memory, increase the endurance of your attention, and decrease negative brain patterns that contribute to mind-wandering, worrying, and poor attention. 

In a 2019 study, Brief, daily meditation enhances attention, memory, mood, and emotional regulation in non-experienced meditators, researchers concluded that daily meditation decreased negative mood states, enhanced attention, working memory, and recognition memory as well as a decreased state in anxiety.  

• Reduces Age-Related Memory Loss

Meditation is a great tool to help keep the mind young. Side effects of meditation such as sharpening the attention span, and clarity of thinking can assist in fighting age-related memory loss.  

In a study published in 2015, Stress, Meditation, and Alzheimer’s Disease Prevention: Where The Evidence Stands, researchers proved that Kirtan Kriya (a type of meditation) is effective in treating people with memory loss.  Evidence shows that the regular practice of Kirtan Kriya  by people with age-related  memory loss  helped improve performance during neuropsychological testing.  

• Alleviates Insomnia

Insomnia is more common than you may think. Many people struggle with falling asleep at night.  Meditation helps diminish runaway thoughts that interfere with sleep. It also relaxes the body, eases tension, and puts you in a peaceful state. 
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In the article, A Randomized Controlled Trial of Mindfulness Meditation for Chronic Insomnia published in 2014, researchers found that people who meditated stayed asleep longer and had improved insomnia severity, compared with those who had an unmedicated control condition.  

There are a variety of meditation techniques that can be used to help improve sleep patterns.  Intergrating mediation into your lifestyle can shorten the time it takes to fall asleep, as well as  increase sleep quality.

There are various meditation techniques.  Finding the one that is right for you may seem overwhelming as a beginner. Starting off with simple breath-focused meditation is a great way to begin.  It involves using the breath as the centre of focus. Breath-focused meditation has several cognitive benefits such as improved attention span, enhanced focus, and increased positive emotions. 

Simple Meditation For Beginners

• Sit or Lie comfortably 
• Close your eyes
• Breathe naturally
• Focus your attention on your breath 
• Observe how the body moves with each inhalation and exhalation
• Let any thoughts pass and return your focus to breath 

In the beginning try to practice for a minimum of 5 minutes, and then try it for longer periods of time as you progress.

This month I had the good fortune of reaching my 47th year. The past year has brought so many changes, and pleasant things. It has been an interesting year (to say the least), for which I will be forever grateful. I truly believe that it’s a precursor of the things to come. 

Less than a year ago the Beauty Disruptor was born, which placed my life on a whole other trajectory. The creation of the Beauty Disruptor has given me a platform to express my ideas and exert my place as a Gen  X woman in modern society, as well as connect with other women such as myself.

After years of working in the beauty industry, I came to the realization that women over 40 were being phased out, and increasingly marginalised. But I digress…Right before my birthday I started to think about my life as a 40+ woman, the ability to maintain my youthfulness in a society that continues to push aside older women, and navigate in a world that glorifies youth over wisdom.

I’m often asked me how I do it, and what is it exactly that keeps me so young. To be quite honest, it’s a cocktail of things that work together simultaneously like a well oiled machine.  A combination of mindset, healthy lifestyle, clean diet, and a good skincare routine. Oh yeah, and I can’t forget genetics…but that’s a whole other story.  
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I’ve learned a lot of things over the years.  Overall I’ve realised that it’s important to keep oneself happy.  Happiness is the key to prolonging longevity.  I’d like to share some of my thoughts, little rituals and behaviours that have helped me retain my youthfulness for all of these years.  

• Feel the spirit of youthfulness. Youthfulness is a feeling and an attitude. Even though I’m 47, I’ve always believed in my heart that I am 21. I often find me referring to myself as a girl, and you can’t tell me otherwise.  Youth is a feeling.  Affirm “I am youth.”
• Know no bounds. Many people believe that they are limited because of their age.  I’ve always had an "I can do anything" attitude, pushing myself beyond my comfort zone, and evolving always. One’s age shouldn’t be a deterrent to trying new things.  On the contrary, wisdom and experience in life should give one courage to seize fresh opportunities.  Say to yourself, “I am limitless.” 
• Never say never. We never know what’s around corner. Sometimes limiting thoughts and beliefs hinder our own growth. Always allow yourself room to grow and evolve.
• Keep an open minded. It’s important to stay abreast of the times. Abandoning outdated thoughts and ideas will keep you young, and in synch with changing tides. 
• Don’t be afraid to laugh at yourself. Believe it or not, I love to poke fun at myself. Life’s not that serious! Laughing and joking at one’s own expense is liberating and a definite stress reliever.  
• Dance. I love to dance! I feel happy when I dance. It releases so much pent up energy, and is a good way to get in touch with your soul. Dancing helps to unblock the sacral chakra. Feel the rhythm of the music expressed through yourself by the power of dance.
• Protect your energy. There are a lot of energy vampires out there just waiting to suck the life out you. Remember that your energy is sacred. Do not allow people to project their negativity onto you or penetrate your aura. Not everyone should have access to you. If you practice this, you’ll lead a more peace filled life with less drama and headaches.  Say to yourself, “My energy is sacred.”
• Give up the need to control. The younger version of myself always felt the need to micromanage every aspect her life.  I was always meddling with my life in the hopes of gaining more control, to make things go the way I wanted when I wanted. Thank God for the wisdom that comes with aging! I’ve now relinquished control, and now flow freely with life.  I don’t care as much about the outcome of situations, because I know that the universe will always work things out in my favour. I’ve realized that life is a journey to be enjoyed, and allow myself to be guided by the process. 
• Celebrate yourself. What a blessing it is to be alive, and have the ability to express yourself through divine feminine energy.  I love being a woman! As I’ve gotten older, I’ve learned to love myself more and celebrate all the qualities I’ve been blessed with. Celebrating oneself is what keeps you alive, feeling vibrant, and connected to this earth.  We each have unique qualities and abilities that deserve to be celebrated.  There are many ways to celebrate oneself.  The key is to do things that uplift you and make you feel good. 
• Allow yourself some grace. We can often be our own worst critic. As human beings, we naturally have a tendency to browbeat ourselves.  This is damaging to the human psyche, and can cause all types of emotional damage. Along my journey I’ve realised that there is no such thing as perfection, so stop seeking it.  Yes, I have goals and aspirations; But Rome wasn’t built in a day.  So I need to work consistently on my goal rather than pushing myself to reach unrealistic deadlines. The validation that we seek exists within, and it’s perfectly normal to be proud of yourself and your accomplishments regardless of how small they may be. Once I stopped beating myself up, I became happier. The imaginary weight that was on my shoulders miraculously lifted.  Giving yourself grace is an act of kindness. It’s funny because we’re often kind to others and not to ourselves. It may take some getting used to, and and a bit of reconditioning.  At first, it might seem weird. But don’t be afraid, go ahead and give yourself the grace you deserve.

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Achieving healthy, glowing skin can sometimes be challenging. Some of us haven’t been blessed  with healthy skin, while others have damaged it over time.  It can be hard finding the right ingredients that give us a healthy glow. Sometimes it’s a process of trial and error. Today, products on the market  are loaded with actives, which can damage the skin if not used correctly.

I’m a firm believer in less is more. Strong products or layering too many products at once does not mean  that you’ll achieve better results. On the contrary, it does more harm than good. Actives such as chemical exfoliants and retinoids should be used with caution. It’s equally as important to know how actives interact with the other ingredients in your skincare routine to avoid skin barrier damage.  

A damaged skin barrier can wreak havoc on your skin, causing a host of problems. Choosing gentler options will lead you to the road of healthy skin. If you have already compromised your skin barrier, this would be a good time to introduce products that promote skin barrier repair. Take one or two days out of the week, dedicating them exclusively to skin barrier protection. Pick ingredients that add moisture, strengthen, protect and repair the skin.

A popular ingredient in many skincare product formulations, hyaluronic acid works by binding water to skin cells.  It is able to hold up to 1000 times its molecular weight in water. As we age, our  body’s reserve of  hyaluronic acid decline.  

When the skin is dehydrated, the skin becomes vulnerable to damage from microorganisms and environmental aggressors. Adding a hyaluronic acid based serum to your skincare routine will attract moisture, increasing the skin's  water content. With regular use, hyaluronic acid  will hydrate, plump the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as maintain a healthy moisture barrier. 
 
Hyaluronic acid is a wonderful option for dehydrated, dry, and flaky skin. Choosing leave-in products (toners, serums, creams) are best when using hyaluronic acid, as they penetrate the skin and work more effectively. 

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​Ceramides are naturally occurring fatty acids found in the skin’s outermost layer.  Their main role is to help keep the skin smooth and supple. As a vital component of the skin, ceramides helps to retain moisture, reinforce the skin barrier, protects against environmental aggressors, and reduces the visible signs of aging.  

Without the proper amount of ceramides, the skin is unable to function properly. When the skin lacks ceramides, the skin barrier becomes compromised, which leads to dryness, irritation, and various skin conditions like atopic dermatitis. Ceramide levels in the skin can be depleted in colder climates, and by the overuse  of exfoliants or soaps, which destabilise the skin’s pH levels.  

As we age, the ceramide content found in the skin diminishes. According to scientific evidence, the body produces fewer ceramides after age 20, at a loss of 1% per year. Unfortunately we cannot stop aging, even as much as  we’d like to. So in order avoid the skin going haywire, it’s important to incorporate  ceramides into your skincare routine when you reach your 30’s and 40’s if you want to maintain healthy looking skin. 

Ceramides are found in a wide range of skincare products. You’ll find them in creams, serums, cleansers, and toners. Ceramides are  often paired with active ingredients such retinol and glycolic acid for deeper penetration. The good news is that the right skincare products can help replenish ceramide levels, increase moisture, and repair the skin barrier.

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This ingredient is probably the most underrated when it comes to skincare.  Glycerin is commonly used in skincare formulations to provide moisture, increase hydration, relieve dry skin conditions, accelerate wound healing and improve skin barrier function.

Glycerin is a powerful humectant that actually pulls water from the atmosphere and the deeper layers of the skin into the outer layers of the skin. Even though glycerin is the most effective humectant out there, it must be used with caution and works best when used in skincare formulations rather than in its pure form.  

A wonderful yet tricky ingredient, glycerin should not be use in arid climates. When used in dry climates with low humidity, glycerin will actually draw water out of the skin into the atmosphere, causing dehydration (and in some cases blistering of the skin). This is known as the boomerang effect. It’s best to err on the side of caution, and only use products formulated with glycerin.

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​Adding peptides to your skincare regimen is an excellent way to give your skin the boost it needs.  Peptides help to repair and rebuild damaged cells  by triggering skin cells to produce collagen and elastin, slowing down the aging process and increasing firmness.  Peptides also contain antioxidants, which assist in soothing the skin and reducing inflammation. 

The use of peptides on a regular basis helps to preserve the skin’s youthful appearance by diminishing fine lines, plumping the skin, increasing hydration, improving skin tone, and reinforcing the skin barrier.  

Peptides are found in every skincare product from cleansers, to masks, serums and creams. Select a leave-in product such as a serum or cream for maximum benefits, since the molecule size is smaller and penetrates deeply. Rinse-off products are a waste of money, and you won’t be able to reap the benefits.

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​Sunscreen has been proven to slow down the skin’s aging process by protecting the skin against photoaging.  Most of the damage caused by UV radiation to our skin is undetectable to the naked eye. Often the effects of photoaging go unseen until it’s too late. Using sunscreen is a surefire way to boost your skin regimen and improve the skin’s appearance.  

Wearing sunscreen protects harmful UV rays, lowers the risk of skin cancer, prevents premature aging, helps prevent hyperpigmentation, and improves overall skin health.  

It’s important to choose a sunscreen that is right for you. Chemical vs natural, or SPF30 vs SPF50, the choice is entirely up to you. Remember to reapply sunscreen every 2 hours when in direct sunlight, and try as much as possible to practice sun avoidance during peak hours.

​Squalene is a lipid produced naturally by the skin cells. It is estimated that squalene makes up about 10-12% of your skin’s oil. With age, the amount of squalene production declines (usually around your 20s and 30s). As a result, the skin becomes drier and rougher. 

Squalene is sourced from shark liver oil and vegetable oils.  It is actually too unstable to be used in skincare products and has a very short shelf life.  Squalene must be hydrogenated into squalane before it become a stable molecule.
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​Squalane is a powerhouse ingredient that has tremendous benefits for the skin. It is highly effective as an emollient, and is known for its antioxidant properties. For years it has been used in medicine to treat wounds and for various other skin problems. When used in skincare, squalane can reduce the appearance of scars, treat hyperpigmentation, reverse UV damage, and fight against free radicals.  

Both squalane and squalene are found in moisturisers, cleansers, and serums. They both do a good job of locking moisture into the skin, making them   excellent options for very dry and mature skin types.  
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​Centella Asiatica is a medicinal herb that has been used in Asia for centuries to heal wounds and cure various ailments. It is commonly known as tiger grass, gotu kola, Indian pennywort, and cica. Today it is used as an ingredient  in skincare to promote overall skin health.  This medicinal herb is now used to combat the signs of aging, protect the skin barrier, and increase hydration. 

Centella asiatica contains a high concentration of amino acids, fatty acids, and beta-carotene which make it so valuable.  Its anti-inflammatory properties help to repair and soothe dry, red and irritated skin. Centella asiatica also increases hydration, protects the skin against environmental aggressors, boosts  collagen production, and helps to calm acne prone skin.  

An excellent addition to any skincare routine, this ingredient can be found in almost any type of skincare product and is suitable for all skin types. 

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Damaging your skin barrier has never been easier. OTC beauty products are packed with exfoliants, which promise to deliver clear, glowing, and wrinkle free skin. Chemical exfoliants have become sort of a trend, and are the go-to solution for acne treatment, anti-aging and everything in-between.  Just look on any ingredient list, and you’ll be sure to find at least one.  You can find them in cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, masks and other beauty treatments. 

Unbeknownst to the average person, chemical exfoliants can severely damage the skin, and often do more harm than good. The misuse of exfoliants damage the skin barrier. Continuous use on a regular basis can result in hyperpigmentation, acne breakouts, skin irritation, fine lines and wrinkles.   It’s important to read every ingredient list before purchasing a new product, and regulate the amount of chemical exfoliants in your skincare routine.  

Once the damage has been done, it’s a long arduous process to restore the skin barrier to its healthy state.  It’s essential to remove all chemical exfoliants from your skincare routine, and take it back to the basics. Remember that less is more when it comes to repairing the skin barrier.  Use gentle products packed with hydrating , soothing and protective ingredients.  

If you’ve had the good fortune of not damaging your skin barrier, you can still add gentle products to your regimen to strengthen and protect the skin.  Prevention is always better than cure.  

Healthy skin begins with a healthy skin barrier.  Learn more about skin barrier functions, how to spot the symptoms of a damaged skin barrier, and how to rebuild it.

Read The Importance Of Protecting Your Skin Barrier

Get on the Journey to healthy skin! Check out the Beauty Disruptor's top picks.
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CLEANSERS

This gentle cream cleanser was formulated for normal, dry, and sensitive skin types.  It contains ceramides, niacinamide, and thermal spring water. Gentle enough for daily use, this cleanser effectively removes makeup and impurities while maintaining the moisture barrier and pH level.
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Provide your skin barrier with the protection it needs, with this mild gel cleanser. This cleanser contains Centella Asiatica extract which helps hydrate, soothe and strengthen the skin. Defence Barrier pH Cleanser will not upset the skin's moisture balance and adds an extra dose of hydration.
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The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser is tough enough to remove stubborn makeup, yet extremely gentle on the skin. This product is cheap and cheerful, so purchase with your eyes closed.  It's formulated with squalane, which supports skin barrier function, and helps to replenish moisture. 
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​FACE TONERS

Eau Thermale by La Roche-Posey can be used in place of a face toner, especially for those with extremely irritated or sensitive skin. These healing waters work to hydrate, soothe, and give the skin a vital dose of antioxidants.  
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This refreshing, lightweight toner balances the skin's pH. Formulated with Sinus Pinaster Bark extract, and seven types of Centella Asiatica extracts to calm  inflammation, protect, and strengthen the skin barrier.  This face toner is suited for all skin types.
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A two-in-one toner that preps the skin and adds an extreme dose of hydration. Laneige Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer intensely hydrates the skin. This product is an excellent choice for stressed out skin.  It contains amino acids, antioxidants, white leaf tea water and glycerin. Results can be seen after the first use. This face toner will leave the skin refreshed and looking radiant.  

​SERUMS

If your skin is longing for moisture, Vichy Minéral 89 is the way to go. This serum is formulated with hyaluronic acid and glycerin.  Vichy Minéral 89 can be added to any skincare routine, both day and night.  It intensely hydrates, and plumps the skin.  It is dermatologist-tested and suitable for all skin types.
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Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule is both pure and mild. It was formulated for all skin types, and is also gentle enough to use on sensitive skin.  This serum contains 100% Centalla Asiatica Extract, well known for its calming and protective effects on the skin. Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule repairs the skin barrier, moisturizes and calms the skin. 
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Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Serum is a great option for people with a compromised skin barrier, and are facing issues with acne.  This highly concentrated serum reduces redness, calms skin, and helps repair the moisture barrier. This serum contains niacinamide, Centella Asiatica, glycerin, a host of other antioxidants, and skin soothing herbs.

MOISTURIZERS

Simplicity at its finest, this is the perfect moisturizer for when less equals more. La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer is one of the best moisturizers to repair damage to the skin barrier.  This light weight moisturizer contains thermal water, ceramides, glycerin, and niacinamide.  It is suitable for all skin types, and works to repair skin barrier damage, hydrate, calm irritation and strengthen skin. 
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Marketed as an anti-aging cream, SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 is clinically proven to nourish the skin and diminish the signs of aging. This patented formula contains a lipid ratio of 2% pure cerimaides 1 and 3, 4% natural cholesterol, and 2% fatty acids. Triple Lipid Restore helps to nourish aging skin, while strengthening the skin barrier, improving firmness and the skin's overall radiance. This anti-aging cream is ideal for normal, dry and aging skin.  The price point is quite steep, so please look before taking the plunge.

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This multi-purpose cream by La Roche-Posay helps to relieve irritation, dryness, and protect the skin from further damage.  Cicaplast Baume B5 contains vitamin B5, shea butter, and Madecassoside. It is suitable for all skin types.
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​MASKS & TREATMENTS

Have sweet dreams and wake up to healthier skin, with Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask. This mask works hard overnight to strengthen the skin barrier.  It is perfect for sensitive skin types and for people experiencing issues with their skin barrier. This overnight miracle mask contains Forest Yeast, Centella Asiatica, Panthenol,  and Cypress Leaf extract. Laneige Cica sleeping Mask is very soothing and comforting to the skin.  A great choice for people who want to give their skin a little TLC.
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SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair was specifically formulated for compromised skin. This treatment combines Centella Asiatica with Beta Glucan to form a protective layer, and assist in skin barrier repair.  SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair also decreases redness, soothes irritated skin, and boosts cell renewal.  It can be used on a compromised skin barrier, or after cosmetic procedures such as microdermabrasion and laser skin therapy. 
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The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment combines a 3% blend of ceramides, along with 2.5% multi-molecular hyaluronic acid. This nourishing treatment works overnight to penetrate the skin, leaving it rehydrated, plump and protected. It is suitable for all skin types.  

Visible signs of aging can first present themselves in a myriad of ways.  Laxity, moisture loss, changes in texture, and dark spots are all signs that age is setting in. As we age, the skin losses elasticity and dermal water content. This tends to affect menopausal women in particular. Scientific evidence suggests that estrogen deficiencies during and following menopause contribute to visible signs of aging in skin. 

Not to worry.  Aging is a fact of life that happens to all of us.  Though we cannot physically stop the clock from ticking, we can determine how well we age.  There’s no secret that anti-aging creams play a role in helping the skin stay supple and youthful looking.  The market is flooded with all types of anti-aging products from anti-aging  serums,  to wrinkle creams, and  other purported  miracle cures.  

We may not stay young forever, but at least we can age gracefully. ​In the spirit of embracing age, the Beauty Disruptor has compiled a list of the  top 10  anti wrinkle creams.  
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This wrinkle cream is great for those who want to fight premature signs of aging, first signs of aging, and repair sun damage. The Protini Polypeptide Cream works to strengthen the skin barrier, by restoring your skin back to its original state.  This wonder cream combines pymy waterlily, signal peptides, amino acids and growth factors to help improve the skin's texture, tone and firmness.  

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This doctor-developed skincare brand is completely backed by science.  Dr. Barbara Sturm Super Anti-aging Face Cream really works.  It contains purslane, meadow knotweed extract, plankton biopolymers, teprenone (an anti-aging molecule), and hyaluronic acid.  This is one of the best anti-aging creams to reinforce the skin barrier, increase firmness, protect against free radicals, and brighten the skin.  It can be used on both dry and sensitive skin.

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An award-winning anti-aging cream that has been clinically proven to increase hydration, while making the skin supple and brighter. This anti-aging cream for dry skin boosts hydration by up to 248% in 1 hour. Carefully formulated with marine plant extracts, this wrinkle cream really delivers.

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One of the best drugstore anti-aging creams that delivers results.  This retinol anti aging cream is affordable, and definitely won't hurt your pockets. If getting rid of  deep wrinkles is your main concern, then you should try this. Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair is formulated with retinol, glucose complex and hyaluronic acid. It promises to smooth the skin, reduce the appearance of fines and wrinkles. 
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Caudalie, the French masters of vinotherapy have created one of the best natural anti-aging creams on the market. Suitable for vegans and "clean beauty" fanatics, this wrinkle cream is made from 97% natural ingredients. Formulated with vineferine, hyaluronic acid, and TET8 patented technology, this rich cream targets the 8 signs of aging. Premier Cru Anti-Aging Cream smooths the appearance of deep wrinkles, diminishes fine lines, improves elasticity, increases hydration, brightens, and also plumps the skin.  This cream is hands down one of the best anti-aging cream for women in their 40s and 50s.

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An anti-wrinkle cream formulated specifically for those with mature skin. SkinCeuticals A.G.E Interrupter Corrective Wrinkle Cream contains an anti-aging complex that has been proven to stop wrinkles dead in their tracks.  Formulated with 30% Proxylane patented technology, 4% blueberry extract, and 0.2% phytosphingosine, this anti-wrinkle cream increases hydration caused by water loss, delivers vital nutrients to the skin, protects the skin barrier, increases firmness, and diminishes the appearance of wrinkles. 
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Drunk Elephant has formulated an anti-aging cream that specifically addresses irregularity in texture, skin tone, and damage caused by photoaging. A-Passioni Retinol Cream contains 1.0% vegan retinol, peptides, and a host of other superfood-rich ingredients making it a wonderful all-purpose cream to take care of any concern for aging skin. 

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Clarins Extra-Firming Nuit Dry Skin is a rich, luxurious cream packed with all-natural plant extracts to revive dry skin. Extra-Firming Nuit is formulated with desert date, acerola, kangaroo flower, mitracarpus, oat, and hydrated silica of moonstone extract. This wrinkle cream visibly firms, tightens, evens skin tone, and decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Repair fine lines and wrinkles with this anti-aging cream created by this doctor-developed skincare brand. Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic+Retinol Anti-Aging Moisturizer contains retinol, ferulic acid, bakuchiol, and rambutan. This rich cream is packed full with antioxidants to help restore the skin's moisture barrier, increase firmness, plump the skin, and diminish fine lines and wrinkles.
   

Fresh has created one of the best anti-aging creams for night.  The Lotus Youth Preserve Dream Night Cream is a lightweight antioxidant rich cream that helps minimize the early signs of aging.  This anti-aging cream detoxifies the skin while you sleep, giving you are more rested look and youthful glow. Lotus Youth Preserve is an excellent option for people who are experiencing the first signs of aging, and want to add a night cream to their regimen. This is one of the best anti-aging creams for people in their 30s.

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There are many ways to maintain healthy youthful looking skin naturally.  If  you’ve had the opportunity to read how to optimise your skin without injectables on our free pro-aging resource page, you would’ve discovered a wealth of information on how to optimise your skin.  It doesn’t cost a penny, or require a doctor’s appointment.  All one needs is a bit of dedication, a change of lifestyle, and an improved diet.

 Visit our pro-aging resource page

Some of us will choose to go a step further , especially when our habits, lifestyle, and diet cease to work.  For those interested in different types of procedures, the next step would be to visit a doctor for a consultation on non invasive treatments that do not  involve needles. Resurfacing modalities are a wonderful option for those who want to retain youthful, glowing skin.

• Laser Skin Therapy
• Microneedling
• Chemical Peels

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​Lasers are a  modality that use both light and heat to create a controlled depth tissue injury in hopes that the body’s healing response will make the skin look better. The top layer of skin is singed off to reveal an improved fresher layer of tissue. ​Over injury to the tissue can deleterious consequences, and under injury to the tissue will not see enough of a result. ​

There are many types of Lasers. One of the newest and best on the market is called Erbium. The Erbium laser is an ablative resurfacing laser that specifically targets resurfacing the top layer of the skin. It gives a nice polishing effect to the skin, and improves overall skin quality. Down time ranges from 2-5 days. Settings can be adjusted to allow for a varied amount of down time, which is great for people of different skin types, skin tones and textures. ​
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• Boosts collagen production 
• Smooths the appearance of scars, making them less visible
• Diminishes the size of pores
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Treats hyperpigmentation and discoloration 
• Reduces the appearance of sun damage 

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Microneedling is a procedure that involves using a device with  very thin, sharp needle tips to create punctures on the surface of the skin. Since the cuts are only on the surface, the pain is quite minimal. The science behind microneedling is that the body’s healing response will kick in to heal those surface wounds, which will result in an improved, more rejuvenated  look.  
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•  Stimulate collagen production
• Helps reduce hyperpigmentation and acne scars
• Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Improves skin texture 
• Reduces the appearance of sun damage
• Shrinks pores
• Improves the penetration of topical products

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​A chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment that involves the use of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid) to remove the top layer of skin.   The most commonly used  AHAs in chemical peels are lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and citric acid along with salicylic acid (BHA). Chemical peels can be customised to suit your skin concerns. They are normally used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, sun damage, acne, fine lines, and wrinkles.  Chemical peels are unable to turn back the hands of time, and cannot do wonders for sagging skin, very deep wrinkles or pitted acne scars.

​The majority of chemical peels penetrate the top layers of the skin.  As the skin peels, the old skin cells are replaced with new ones. 
  

• Light chemical peels (more commonly known as superficial peels) remove the top layer of skin. Light chemical peels target uneven skin tone, fine lines, acne and dryness. Superficial peels have minimal to no downtime, with mild redness to flaking. This type of peel can be performed every 5 weeks on average, under the guidance of a doctor or licensed professional.  
• Medium chemical peels removes skin cells from the top layer of skin and also penetrates a bit deeper.  Medium chemical peels treat wrinkles, acne,  and uneven skin tone. This procedure may need to repeated in order to achieve or maintain the desired result.
• Deep chemical peels penetrate even deeper to remove skin cells.  This type of peel is recommended for the treatment of deep wrinkles, scars, pigmentation and precancerous growths. Deep chemical peels result in moderate to advanced flaking. There is no need to repeat this procedure to get the desired effect. 

Before embarking into the world of chemical peels, your skin must be assessed by a professional to determine which type of peel is best for you. Your skin tone, skin concern, and texture are all determining factors in deciding which type of peel is best suited for you. 

• Improves irregularities in skin texture
• Helps even out skin tone and diminish hyperpigmentation
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Diminishes the size of pores
• Helps treat acne
• Smooths scars 

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AHA peels  which consist of glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid exfoliate the top layer of the skin.  The most commonly used contain glycolic acid, and lactic acid.  Lactic acid is much gentler than glycolic acid, and is used on sensitive skin types.  

BHA Peels contain salicylic acid, and are used on acne prone skin.  BHA peels target oiliness by penetrating into the pores to break down sebum and dirt that cause acne.

Retinol peels contain vitamin A, and have the ability to penetrate the skin deeper than acids due to its small molecular size.  Retinol peels help to reveal new skin cells, and are great for treatment of fine lines, wrinkles, irregularities in skin texture, and sun damage. 

There is some peeling that occurs after the application of a retinol peel, which typically lasts 2-4 days. The final result is smoother, brighter, and healthier looking skin.

​There is some mild stinging or a tingling sensation that will occur during the peel before the product is removed. One should expect some redness, flaking, and peeling on the days following the procedure. Superficial peels produce mild redness to flaking, while deep chemical peels produce moderate to advanced flaking/peeling of the skin.

Before a chemical peel you should avoid the use of all exfoliating products (both chemical and manual).  It is equally just as important to avoid procedures on the face beforehand like waxing, and lasers. 

Aftercare is essential to ensure a good result.  One must avoid manual scrubs of all kinds, products containing AHAs, BHAs, and retinol for at least one week.  Avoid the sun, and wear SPF to protect the skin from darkening.  During the healing process, your skincare routine should be filled with simple, gentle products that do not irritate the skin.  For more advice on post-treatment, consult with your professional on the best products to use for your skin.

Sunscreen is becoming an integral part of people’s daily skincare routine. As the use of sunscreen continues to rise, individuals are now more concerned with skin health and optimisation. Finding suitable options can be challenging for people with darker skin tones. Traditionally sunscreens left an unsightly white cast, which made many steer away from daily usage. Fortunately today there are a myriad of options for POC at varying price points.

If you’re looking for an spf that won’t give you that ghostly look, here's  a list of 10 sunscreens that won’t leave a white cast.

Caring for your lips is vitally important, and they should be equally cared for just like any other part of your face.  Winter is the worst time of year for the skin, and cold temperatures can be extremely harsh on the lips.  So it’s essential to give your lips an added bit of TLC during the winter months. Colder temperatures can lead to dry, flaky and chapped lips. 

Rough, dry lips are definitely not a good look. It’s easy to forget  to use lip care products, so to avoid chapped lips it’s always a good idea to keep a few products on hand.  Try keeping products close by, either in your handbag, pocket, or on the nightstand, that way it’ll be easier to remember.  Using a hydrating lip balm, lip scrub, or lip treatment can relieve dryness and an extra dose plumpness. 

Avoid using a toothbrush to slough away dead, dry skin.  Toothbrushes do more harm than good, and can easily rip the delicate skin on the lips. Instead choose a lip scrub, which will gently exfoliate without causing damage.  Lip scrubs also help to increase the blood flow to the lips, which increase colour and help plump the lips. 

Adding a lip mask to your evening routine can work wonders. Night treatments such as a hydrating sleeping mask, add an extra dose of hydration and protection for those living in colder climates. Lip masks prevent dryness, and chapping of the lips. They also make your lips appear plumper, and can reduce the signs of aging. 
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An overnight treatment mask that gives you a double whammy. It  hydrates, as well as exfoliates your lips while you sleep. Ilia's potent formula has all your lip care needs wrapped up in one, giving you plumper, softer, and smoother lips.

This intensive lip treatment is meant to nourish, and repair damaged lips. It contains hyaluronic acid, and orange extract. This lip treatment keeps lips hydrated for 24 hours, plumps the lips, and relieves dry flaky skin when used on a consistent basis. 

This is a restorative lip mask meant for nightly use.  Tatcha Kissu Lip Mask contains squalane and Japanese Peach. The look and feel of this product is absolutely luxurious.  It deeply penetrates giving you that extra dose of moisture, and lushness. 

This cruelty-free lip moisturiser is packed with antioxidants.  It contains avocado oil, mongongo nut oil, sea fern algae, and a tripeptide.  The result is a well nourished , and hydrated lip.  This product will give you a smoother, plumper, well defined lip.  If you are concerned about aging, this will definitely help you retain that youthful pout. 

This lip care set created by beauty mogul Rihanna, covers all your lip care needs.  The Lip-loving Scrubstick and Luscious lip bomb will give you totally kissable lips after just a few uses. 

This  grapefruit scented lip scrub gently exfoliates, leaving the lips extra soft and hydrated.  It contains sweet almond oil and vitamin E, which help to moisturise and protect the skin. This luxurious lip scrub is intended for daily use, and can be used to remove lipstick or lipgloss.

A wonderful overnight treatment for extra-dry lips.  This treatment locks in hydration while you sleep, giving you smooth and plump lips.  Formulated for those of you who suffer from severe dry lips.  This product contains sugar, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, and berry wax. 

For those of you on a budget, this lip scrub delivers.  It contains honey crystals, which work to condition and gently exfoliate the lips.  Your lips will be softer, smoother, well moisturised without breaking the bank.

The godfather of all sleeping masks, this is a must have for any k-beauty enthusiast.  The results of this product are visible after the first use. When used continuously, it eliminates  dry, flaky skin, and leaves your lips moisturised. 

You should try this scrub if you have rough, dry and flaky lips.  This scrub gently buffs away dry skin to reveal a softer, smoother pout.  It contains brown sugar crystals, shea butter, and jojoba oil. This scrub can be used in combination with the other lip products from the Fresh brand.