HOW TO USE RETINOIDS CORRECTLY

Retinoids are  a  broad class of compounds derived from vitamin A or synthetic forms of vitamin A. While they  exist in different forms and  strengths, retinoids are unanimously used for a wide variety of skin concerns ranging from acne, to hyperpigmentation, and aging skin.

​Some retinoids are available under a doctor’s prescription. But there are a bunch of over the counter alternatives that work just as well.  You can usually find over the counter retinoids in the form of retinol, retinaldahyde, and retinal palmate. While retinoids  such as tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene require a prescription.  

With the varying degrees of potency, it can be confusing to decide which retinoid is best to address your needs. Regardless of which type of retinoid you choose, keep in mind that they're pretty much applied in the same manner. 

HOW TO APPLY RETINOIDS

Though extremely effective in treating various skin conditions, it’s important to remember that retinoids can cause peeling, mild irritation and even post inflammatory hyperpigmentation if not used correctly. In the initial stages it can be nerve-racking trying to figure out the frequency of applications in order to avoid things like skin irritation from happening.  By following these steps, you can avoid  these sort of  disasters.

• Gradually Increase Frequency: The number one thing you want to remember with retinoids, is that slow and steady wins the race.  Integrate retinoids slowly into your skincare routine. Retinoids can be strong, especially for a novice. There’s no need in applying a retinoid every night during the beginning stages. This will only rip your skin to shreds. It’s wise to initially start off by applying 1-2 times a week and build up tolerance.  As the skin adjusts you can increase applications to every other night, and eventually increase to nightly applications as time goes on.  Don't forget that balance is key here.

 

• Start with a low concentration: Starting off with a retinoid that is too potent can cause peeling and skin irritation. Bear in mind that less is more.  To be on the safe side, opt for a retinoid  with a lower concentration (0.025% to 0.05%). You can gradually increase the dosage over time, as the skin builds up tolerance. 

 

• Use a small amount: While one may think that applying a lot of product will enhance results, nothing could be further from the truth.  Apply on a pea sized amount of product and distribute by applying in small dots on your forehead, chin, nose, and cheek areas.  Take care to avoid the eye area. 

 

• Apply only at night: Its advisable to apply your retinoid at night, as retinoids can increase sun sensitivity. If you tend to spend time in the sun for extended periods of time or plan on going on holiday, then skip  nightly applications during this period to be on the safe side. If possible, try to avoid the sun all together. 

 

• Use before applying moisturiser: Ideally retinoids should be applied right before your your moisturizer, after cleansing and toning your skin.  If you are experiencing signs of irritation, then apply your retinoid after your moisturizer to decrease irritation and act as a buffer. 

 

• Always use sunscreen: Skin sensitivity increases with the use of retinoids. Lack of sun protection can lead to hyperpigmentation. Sunscreen acts as a shield and protects the skin against damaging UV rays.  When using retinoids, it’s important to wear SPF 50.  For adequate protection throughout the day, reapply sunscreen every two hours (especially when in direct sunlight).  

 

• Be patient: Results from retinoids may take several weeks until they are noticeable. Peeling, dryness and slight irritation may occur, but will subside once the skin adapts. It’s wise to exercise patience when using retinoids in general.  Starting out with a low potency retinoid, and spacing out applications until your skin builds up tolerance is the best course of action.  

 

• Seek the opinion of a trained professional: When in doubt, always seek the guidance of a trained professional.  Some skin concerns need to be treated a dermatologist, who can guide you in the best manner and give you personalised recommendations.  

WHAT NOT TO DO WHEN USING RETINOIDS

It’s not a good idea to mix retinoids with AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), BHA (beta hydroxy acid), or PHA (poly hydroxy acid)  as they can increase skin irritation and cause PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) especially on darker skin tones. Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick scale 5&6) are prone to hyperpigmentation which can take months and even years to get rid of.  

​If you want to use certain actives in your skincare routine other that retinoids, then consult a dermatologist who can structure your skin routine. Below is a list of the actives that can and cannot be combined with retinoids.

HOW TO MIX RETINOIDS WITH OTHER ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

RETINOIDS AND ANTI-AGING

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